Makeup artists around the world promote different trends, but they all agree on one thing: eyebrows set the tone for the entire makeup look. There are many styles of brows, like thick, arched, or braided. This can be confusing. Shaping them by yourself can be hard too.
Are you struggling with brow architecture? Let's look at common mistakes beginners make. We will learn how to choose the right eyebrow shape for different face types. We will also discuss how to balance facial features with simple makeup techniques.
Eyebrow Elements: Start, Body, Arch, Tip
To better understand different eyebrow shapes, let’s briefly look at their key components:
- Start – the widest part of the eyebrow.
- Arch – the highest point of the brow’s curve.
- Tip – the tapered or pointed end of the eyebrow.
- Body – the entire brow from start to tip.
To shape your eyebrows correctly, follow this simple three-line guide:
a) Start – aligns with the inner corner of the nostril.
b) Arch – located at the intersection of the nostril and the center of the pupil.
c) Tip – extends from the outer edge of the nostril past the outer corner of the eye.
To visualize these lines, place a pencil or brush against your face and use it as a guide when shaping your brows.
Choose the method that works best for you and be cautious during the process. Avoid removing too much, only trim the hairs that extend beyond your natural eyebrow shape.
- Tweezing: Plucking individual hairs for precise shaping.
- Threading: Removing multiple hairs simultaneously for quicker results.
- Waxing: Eliminating hairs from the root for longer-lasting effects.
- Shaving: Quick removal of hairs, though the results are temporary.
Common Mistakes in Eyebrow Shaping
1. Eyebrow Tip That’s Too Long and Low
Don't extend the outer tips of your eyebrows too far. Also, avoid lowering them below the inner corners. This can make you look tired and highlight fine lines. Instead, slightly sharpen the tip and ensure it ends at or slightly above the level of the start.
2. Ignoring the Natural Brow Shape
Even if you don’t love your natural brows, working with their original shape is best to maintain balance. Changing their structure a lot—like making curved brows straight—can upset facial proportions.
✔ Outline the natural contours of the start, arch, and tip before filling them in with makeup.
3. Overly Sharp, Graphic Brows
Eyebrows naturally consist of hairs growing in different directions. Even when neatly brushed, their outline won’t be perfectly straight. Overly defined, ruler-like brows appear unnatural and outdated.
✔ After filling in the brows, use a spoolie brush to blend the product for a softer finish.
4. Harshly Defined Brow Start
A common mistake is outlining the start of the eyebrows with a harsh, squared-off shape. This makes the face look stern and heavy.
✔ For dark, thick brows, start filling them in from the middle.
✔ For light, sparse brows, apply color from the start but blend thoroughly.
5. Using Too Much Product
If your brows still look unnatural after blending, you may have applied too much product.
✔ When using a pencil, apply soft strokes.
✔ If using brow powder, tap off excess product from the brush before application.
6. Harsh Transition from Tip to Start
Regardless of your chosen brow shape—arched, curved, or straight—there should be a smooth transition from start to tip.
7. Brushing Brows Downward or Outward
Brows should be brushed upward, following their natural shape slightly to the side. This lifts the eyes and creates a more open look while minimizing the appearance of fine lines. Brushing them downward or outward can make the face look heavier.
8. Using a Low-Quality Makeup Mirror
Using a low-quality mirror can significantly affect the accuracy of your brow shaping. Poor lighting and a distorted view can lead to uneven brows and missed details. It's essential to have a high-quality, well-lit mirror that offers a clear, true-to-life reflection.
✔ Invest in a good vanity mirror with adjustable lighting to ensure you can see every detail. A magnifying mirror can also help for precision.
How to Choose the Right Eyebrow Shape?
Everyone has unique brows and facial features, but they generally fall into certain categories. Below are the most common face shapes and their ideal eyebrow styles.
Golden rule: Opposites attract. The sharper the facial features, the softer the brows should be, and vice versa—softer features pair well with more structured brows.
Round Face
Ideal brows: Arched with a pointed tip
A round face benefits from sharply arched brows, which help elongate the face and create definition.
Oval Face
Ideal brows: Straight or gently curved
Makeup artists consider the oval face shape the most balanced. It doesn’t require strong contouring, so soft, natural brows—either straight or with a gentle arch—are the best choice. Avoid overly sharp angles, as they can create an overly harsh look.
Square Face
Ideal brows: Soft, slightly arched brows
Square faces have strong jawlines and prominent cheekbones. Sharp, angular brows can exaggerate these features, so opt for a gentle arch to soften the overall look.
Rectangular Face
Ideal brows: Long, soft brows without sharp angles
Similar to square faces, rectangular faces need brows that balance their elongated proportions. Soft, slightly extended brows work best.
Diamond Face
Ideal brows: Soft arch or S-shaped brows
A diamond-shaped face features high cheekbones and a narrow forehead. Curved brows help soften angular features and create symmetry.
Heart-Shaped Face
Ideal brows: Gently curved with a slightly lifted tail
Heart-shaped faces have a broad forehead and a pointed chin. Brows should balance these features, so avoid straight or sharply angled brows. Instead, opt for rounded, softly arched brows with a slightly lifted tail for a flattering effect.
